Huzzah! Last month’s issue of Scan Magazine featured my very first restaurant review – a Russian in Helsinki – which I’m quietly very pleased about!
It’s that time of year again: work emails from the across the pond tail off, UK broadsheet readers salivate as food writers publish their pumpkin pie riffs and deep-fried turkey recipes, and homesick expats raid the supermarkets for marshmallows, Libby’s packed pumpkin and pumped up turkeys.
Whilst this household doesn’t tend to observe said ‘holiday’ with any kind of piety (was that a pun in there??), it has, instead, experienced a trend for dabbling in the production of pumpkin pie to varying degrees of success. So naturally, this month’s New Yorker elicited a 100 watt smile from me with its gustatory cover image and an index overflowing with food-related reportage. Yum!
Adam Gopnik’s commentary, ‘The First Served’ delighted me with his ode to the symbolic turkey, advocating for its honourable conduct in the farmyard to elevate it to the ranks of the bald eagle. Indeed, the turkey would be a most worthy usurper of the ‘bad moral character…[who] does not get his living honestly’ of the bald eagle when it comes to a national emblem.
With Thanksgiving turkeys becoming ever more seasonal and local in the more svelte shape of ‘heritage’ varieties and CSA produce, and in spite of all one’s misgivings about the trashy, junk food versions of turkey and pie, and all the other foodstuffs that give Thanksgiving food a bad name, perhaps this kind of Thanksgiving table ought to be a sort of ‘anthro-socio-cultural’ emblem that should be celebrated for all that it represents of the myths and rituals invoked by the giving of thanks? As Gopnik deftly puts it, “You are what you eat, and if we eat our heritage perhaps we can return to it.”
Happy Thanksgiving y’all!